What I Learned in the Restaurant Business
Sometime while I was in high school I read a magazine article entitled the 10 best non-college professions. One of the choices was a career in food service. There was a picture of a chef with a tall white hat, and I projected myself into that picture. It was the only one of the 10 professions that appeal to me.
I knew wanted to travel and I wanted a certified profession so that I would be able to find work when I traveled. Eventually, I went to the Culinary Institute Of America when it was still in New Haven Connecticut and I graduated in 1971.
My first job after graduating was it a small family run Italian restaurant in Marshfield Massachusetts. I think the most valuable thing I learned there was how to toast chopped garlic in a sauté pan to get maximum flavor before adding other ingredients to the pan. I stayed for the summer and saved up enough money that I could buy a bicycle and an old Ford econoline van and to begin my traveling life.
In September of that year, I went to Connecticut to say goodbye to my girlfriend Pamela. At some point, she said "Aren't you going to ask me to go with you?" I said, "But you're in college." She said, "I'll drop out."
"Really? OK, if that's what you want to do." And just like that I was headed out on a cross country trip with my girlfriend.
Originally, we were going to go to Aspen, Colorado, but somewhere in New York State I decided I wanted to go to Jackson Hole Wyoming instead of Aspen (too popular). We arrive there in early October and half the restaurants in town were already closed because of summer season is over and the winter season was months away. I did not add a lot of culinary skills to my repertoire in Jackson, except how to cook steaks over live charcoal at a little restaurant called the Cattle Baron right on the Square in the center of town.
I had many wonderful experiences in Jackson, like learning to cross country ski on 10 feet of snow and becoming a better downhill skier with lots of practice at the small hill in town called Snow King..
"Originally, we were going to go to Aspen, Colorado, but somewhere in New York State I decided I wanted to go to Jackson Hole Wyoming instead of Aspen..."
In the summer of 1972 there was rock climbing in the Tetons, great fishing, whitewater rafting. Spending three days by myself in a remote ski cabin on the eastern side of Jackson Peak, a completely unique experience to me. I also lived in a tipi for the last two months that I was in Jackson.
I was able to take some pottery lessons in Jackson at a seasonal pottery shop, which led me to my next adventure.
I loved living in Jackson, but I was working for three dollars an hour and land cost $5000 an acre, I didn't see a future for me there.
In the summer of 1972 my girlfriend, Pamela decided to go back to Connecticut and go back to college. After the summer ended, I packed up most of my stuff and drove to Laguna Beach California to continue my pottery lessons with the same teacher, Janet, Braley, at the Laguna Beach School of Art.
In Laguna Beach I found a job working at the charming Cottage Restaurant on the Coast Highway very close downtown. My primary responsibility was baking pies, lots of pies. Name a kind of pie and I made it. I became quite good at pie baking and I also did quite a bit of prep work, soups, salad dressings, etc.
I spent mornings at the pottery shop, afternoon and evening at the restaurant and in my spare time I went to the beach all within a half mile of each other and my small apartment. I sold my van and got around by bicycle or walking. I let my hair grow. I bought Earth shoes, and experimented with fasting and meditating.
I lived there for almost a year, but I was getting a little homesick.
I bought a pick up truck and loaded it up with my stuff, went back to Wyoming to pick up my tipi cover and tipi poles and then drove back to my hometown of Ludlow Massachusetts.
I secured a job at a small French restaurant called Pico's Place and worked with a young French trained chef named Jean-Jacques Gage. I learned quite a bit about French cooking and enjoyed my experience there. It was the first and only restaurant I ever worked in where we used heavy cream out of half gallon containers, almost every sauce was finished with a splash of heavy cream, reduced to a wonderful, thick silky texture.
After a year and a half at Picot's I got my first chef job at a large corporate steakhouse called T. Butcher Block. I learned how deal with a very high volume restaurant. How to hire and train a staff of 15 to 20 people. I had to learn to cut steaks, a lot of steaks, the bone in T-bones on a meat cutting bandsaw. I had to prep for a really high volume restaurant. I signature soup was a Beer and Cheddar Soup garnished with popcorn, we made it in 60 quart pots. The assistant manager at this restaurant was a man name Marty Schupert, who grew up in Middlebury Vermont. After four months of working together, he returned to Vermont to become the manager of Mr Up's Restaurant in Middlebury. After a few months, he called me up and said I really need a chef up here. I applied for the job in January 1976 and moved to Middlebury a month later.
At Mr Up's I really sharpened my skills to become a very efficient working chef. Managing a staff of 10 to 12 kitchen workers. Ordering all the food, getting all the prep work done and working on the lunch and dinner line at least five days a week. I worked at Mr Up's for six years.
In Laguna Beach I found a job working at the charming Cottage Restaurant on the Coast Highway very close downtown. My primary responsibility was baking pies, lots of pies. Name a kind of pie and I made it... I spent mornings at the pottery shop, afternoon and evening at the restaurant and in my spare time I went to the beach..."
In May 1982, my ex-wife and I bought our first restaurant, Pauline's Kitchen in South Burlington Vermont. I was worried about everything I didn't know, but I was also determined to figure it out. My attitude was, no one was born, knowing how to do this, if others could learn how to do it so can I.
Pauline's is where I was able to concentrate everything I had learned so far in a restaurant business and apply it to my own business with passion and determination.
In the beginning, I got into the restaurant business because I wanted to travel, and because I like making things like bread and sauces and soups, and all the other acts of creation that go into a successful restaurant.
Initially, I thought this business is all about food, but it came to realize like most businesses it truly is all about people. Learning to manage and properly incentivize staff members so they do their best work was especially rewarding for me. Because I knew this would create a pleasant dining experience for the guest, and this would lead to continued success of the business.
I owned Pauline's restaurant for 26 years From 1982 until 2012 when I sold the business to the chef. I was able to see an increase in sales every year I owned the business. I tried many different ideas out to make the business grow but the best thing I did was putting an addition on the north side of the building in 1993 that added a 22 additional seats and also enabled me to expand the prep area in the kitchen so that we could do more creative and detailed menu items like classic Greek Tomato Salad and Bananas Forster. Pauline's was the first and maybe the only restaurant in Vermont to have fresh Black Truffles on the menu.



In 1997 I purchased Leunig's Bistro in downtown Burlington. I also put an addition on the side of that building that added 26 additional year round seats. This kind of investment excites the customers and the staff and turned out to be very good for business.
The best thing I did at Leunigs was to initiate a weekly management meeting. Thursday afternoon from 2:30 to 3:30 the managers and I would discuss any pertinent issues. These meetings went a long way toward making the restaurant run smoothly and create a pleasant dining experience for our guests, which of course makes the business grow. A classic win-win situation.
In 2002 I built the Bobcat Cafe and Brewery at 5 Main St. in Bristol Vermont. This is the only restaurant I created from scratch and I believe is a pretty accurate picture of what I think a brewpub should look like. It has a 100 year-old wood bar that I believe is one of the most beautiful bars anywhere. It was made in Albany, New York and I was able to purchase it out of a bar in Port Henry New York. I sold the Bobcat in 2007, it continues to be a success to this day and I have to say I'm very proud of it.
So some of the best things I've learned in a restaurant business are to be very careful about hiring and make sure that the people you do hire share your own desire to create a pleasant dining experience for the guest. Everything for the guest, because that's where all the money comes from.
Danny Meye's book 'Setting the Table', he describes Enlighten Hospitality as, "When you're born. Someone looks at you and makes eye contact, they smile at you, and then they feed you". I love the simplicity of that statement obviously, the details are numerous. Of course you need a good consistent product served in a friendly safe cozy environment for your guests. So they can have a pleasant experience that they will want to repeat again and again, and hopefully tell their friends about as well. That's the foundation of any successful restaurant venture.
In 2002 I built the Bobcat Cafe and Brewery in Bristol Vermont. This is the only restaurant I created from scratch and I believe is a pretty accurate picture of what I think a brewpub should look like. It has a 100 year-old wood bar that I believe is one of the most beautiful bars anywhere."

In the 2001 book, 'Good to Great' by Jim Collins he reinforces the importance of having "The right people on the bus and having them in the right seat on the bus, and then the bus will almost drive itself".
It certainly has worked for me over the years. I can honestly say I probably made every mistake possible along the way, but I did learn, and I did persevere and I was able to sell three successful restaurants to managers that I had mentored into ownership positions. I was also a mentor/partner in three other restaurants along the way.
I loved the restaurant business partially because I love the act of creation, starting with the most humble of ingredients, onions, carrots, and celery and creating a dining adventure that I know many of my guests still remember as a pleasant enjoyable experience to thus day.
That's my reward and I have to say I'm very happy at the end of the day.